Varkala. Katakali
Way home from beach passed by so called Varkala Cultural Centre where traditional keral dance Katakali was shown everyday. Coming back I heard beating of a drum and even could catch a few glimpses of dancers through the doorway. And one day I eventually decided to come in.
By that time the show has already started. I’ve missed the process of putting on the make-up and all the explanations on what kind of indian drama would be played. But isn’t it even more interesting without them?
So, what is Katakali like if you don’t know at all what it is?
Man wearing female dress makes faces on the scene shrieking. Nevertheless there is violent striking of a drum and absolutely national environment I still cannot get rid of a feeling that it’s a transvestite like those making show in usual city gay-clubs.
Okay, an indian one. Just look at these grotesque perking breasts!
Make-up covers all the dancer’s face in thick layer and so it seems that he’s wearing a mask. But it’s not a mask.
The dance itself consists of small moves around, whirling and of course active gesticulation.
Transvestite or no, the character is obviously negative. It is clearly understood from the black dress colouring, demonic drum beat and the actions it makes. Positive character would never play taking a lice out of one’s hair and tasting it.
After especially furious dance accompanied by screams the madam leaves behind curtains and her place is taken by next characters. Green-faced man in same kind of a huge dress.
And a bit aside there is a woman dressed in almost normal way. Compared to those giants she looks tiny.
The man and the woman start to communicate.
Man seems very proud and unapproachable. And she is probably guilty of something. She would obviously like to come closer but dares not.
Now, when there are normal and not grotesque characters on the scene I see what’s the essence of Kathakali dance. Very special hand language used everywhere in indian art is accompanied by simply incredible face mimicry. Body movements are very poor, dances make only a few steps left or right and seldomly turn around but all the gamut of emotions is clearly shown on their faces.
Concerning the hand gestures it’s is said that there is whole language of them in indian dances, in a way similar to our deaf and dumb language. But also, same as in this language, some of the gestures are intuitive and can be easily understood by everyone.
Those understanding hindi can also follow the story through listening to some singing on backside of the scene.
But plain tourist whos been only passing by can only be guessing what’s going on.
At some moment woman makes a gesture full of eroticism - lifting her long skirt a little bit.
"What?"
"Me?"
"No, no." - "But why, why?"
"No."
"But please, please!"
They continue to communicate in same manner for a while more.
Finally she makes one more gesture filled with erotism.
And comes very close to the man.
And in the very moment when everything could have happened he’s just pushing her away. "Oh no!"
"All the men are same!"
Woman leaves in total sense confusion and instead of her same familiar transvestite enters the scene.
Boys start their purely male talk.
Here there are not too much of shrieking, rather hand language only.
From both sides.
The conversation continues, at some moment they are standing in from of each other and th transvestite exposes his grotesque perking breasts before the splendid green man.
"Now this is too much!" - and the splendid green man exposes his sword.
And that’s where the wild shrieking starts again: "Boobs! Boobs! Oh my boobs!"
The black character leaves the scene and green hero dances his victory dance in such an way like all the universal evil has been destroyed through beating this harmless little pervert.
The dance finishes in traditional gesture of paying homage to the gods.
After all the drums and singing fall silent all the dancers come back to the scene. Now tourists can take some pictures together with them for the good remembrances of Kerala.
And I’m taking little booklet from the table to read what’s really been going on. The demoness Nakrathundi finds that her body is not clean and tidy. So she manages to clean up her body. Then she combs her hair with fingers and ties it up. She cleans her ears and puts on ornaments. She cleans her eyes and paints her eyebrows. She wants to play. As there is nobody to play with her she begins to play some games alone. Then she goes to Devaloka to capture maidens for Asura King Narakasura whose servant she is. On the way she sees Jayantha, the son of Indra. She falls in love with him. To fulfill her desire she assumes the form of a beautiful girl.
Nakrathundi is now in the form of a beautiful girl. She approaches Jayantha. She asks him plainly to marry her. Jayantha tries to escape from her. She gets angry and assumes her real form. She starts to use physical force to fullfill her desire. There upon Jayantha draws his sword and cuts off her nose, ears and part of her breast. She retreats from the scene.
So, is it like the truth?
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November 30, 2008 3:20 pm
